Sunday, January 04, 2015

Tanzania VI.

12-26-14 SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK, TANZANIA: We had pre-dawn start to get back to the Lake Manyara Airport for our flight to the Serengeti, but still saw a genet, a small, black and white cat with a ringed tail, and a hydrax, plus giraffes, elephants and the grazers in a flying drive to the park exit.

We got to the airport, which had lost power, and we just boarded planes, no ticketing, no security, no boarding passes, just hop on for the hop. The Tanganyika Flying Company culture is relaxed when compared to the majors.

The dirt airstrip in the Serengeti, Ndutu, is manned only by a windsock and zebras. The planes make a fast approach, but don’t land and then go around for a second approach and landing. That double approach is to chase the animals off the runway.

Our new crew of guides and staff met us and gave us a quick orientation. We then took off for our first game drive in the Serengeti. The preserve is 300 square miles in area, but the animals migrate from one end to the other following the water availability and wet and dry seasons. No rain - no grass - no grazers - no prey, so everybody follows the seasons.

We almost immediately found a cheetah with two cubs. Along with ten other 4x4’s, we watched for an hour or so while she waited for some gazelles to wander within reach, but they stayed out of range. We saw a pride of seven sleeping lions before getting to the tent camp where we stay for the next three nights. Lucy asked, ‘Why did the lion cross the road?’ She answered her question, ‘To get to the other pride.’ That’s almost as bad as one of mine.

We got to Serengeti Under Canvas in time for lunch. The camp is all tents, luxurious tents to be sure, but the whole camp can be moved to wherever the animals are. The individual tents are screened because of the bugs, and the screens open with big zippers. The showers are outdoors and are large canvas buckets filled by the tent’s butler. Stephen was our butler. He also did the night escort duty for us, clean up and laundry.

There are big tents for dining and the lounge, kitchen and business offices and staff housing. Electric power is provided by generators and large storage batteries. There is lighting in the tents, and lightning outside as it’s the rainy season. Charging outlets are available at the business office. After lunch, we all napped until the afternoon game drive.

We found a leopard in a small acacia tree with part of her last kill stashed in the bushes under the tree. While we watched and photo’d her, a heavy T-storm hit, soaking the area. When we decided to move on, we couldn’t. The trucks were all mired in mud. Ultimately we got rescued while the leopard watched from her bushy lair where she had her stash, and where she sheltered from the rain.

While we were waiting for help, there was a gorgeous sunset. We got back to the camp for showers, dinner and bed.


Dawn over Lake Manyara as we sped to the airport....

But stopping for pix of a Hydrax. I never heard of them either. There are seven species that live in trees or rocks. They are vegans. They weigh in at 8-10 pounds.

The Serengeti looks like this. Lots of acacia trees, flattop and umbrella, growing thickly in some places and sparsely in others. There is other vegetation, of course.

Our first Cheetah mom with two cubs...

The cubs. Did I hear somebody say 'cute'?

Marabou stork, a huge bird who was often scavenging around the camp.

Bigger Prides than we have seen before.

Roughing it in tents...

Our veranda...

A shower for each of us fill after the game drive by our butler.

Superb Starling is gorgeous and on almost every tree.

Our first leopard in her tree.

We were caught in an intense [no pun intended] rain storm while under the leopard tree. All three trucks were stuck, and the guides couldn't get us out. We were picked up by other trucks and brought to camp. They then went back to get our stuck trucks out.

Mired in the mud.

Rewarded with a sunset.

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