
9-29-08 SHORT HILLS: And we’re back. Internet access was slow and expensive at the hotels so there was no chance to post while away. Also they ran us ragged, and I had a hard time just outlining the days and editing pix. I’ll do some of those pix as a Picasa embedded slide show in the blog and post a link to the stills:
9-20-08 TAORMINA, SICILY: Getting here was hell, but the trips are always awful. We flew steerage to Rome and then couldn't make our connection from Rome to Catania, Sicily because we couldn’t get boarding passes from Alitalia. They had one person giving boarding passes to a long line of people all trying to get boarding passes for different flights all leaving about the same time. We did get a flight on AirOne about three hours later. The discomfort and uncertainties of travel are magnified by the sleepless nights. Anyone think I am hoping Alitalia gets out of its financial mess?
After the second flight got in, we met the driver who took us to Taormina and the Hotel Continental. The town is set on a steep limestone mountainside facing the north side of Mt. Etna with the Mediterranean Sea on the east. It has lots of old stone building and churches, a Greek theatre, lots of sidewalk cafés on a pedestrian mall, the Corso Umberto, and is a feast for the eyes. The rest of the group got in just before dinner.
9-21-08 TAORMINA, SICILY: The day started with a lecture on Sicilian art and then a guided tour of the town which told us about the places we had seen the day before and ended at the ancient theatre. The theatre was built by the Greeks for dramatic productions and was converted by the Romans to an arena for gladiators and animal fights.
After lunch we shared a taxi to the nearby town of Castelmola. It sits on top of a steep mesa-like hill. The buildings are all built to the edges of the cliffs. We walked down the hill on a footpath with a lot of switchbacks and crossed over a pass to a mount top church, Sanctuario Madonna Rocca. The church is carved out of the rock and looks down on Taormina. To get back to the city, we walked down the many flights of steps the pilgrims walk up, reversing the Stations of the Cross in the process. So did we save Jesus?
Before dinner there was a geology lecture on the Mt. Etna volcanic eruptions.
9-22-08 TAORMINA, SICILY: This morning Mt. Etna, which looms over the hotel’s huge patio, had snow on the highest peaks. After breakfast, we motored south on the east coast of Sicily to Syracuse. Syracuse is an ancient Greek city, the New York of its time, back then. It is built of the limestone bedrock it sits on. The Baroque palaces in the huge main piazza are all white, including the cathedral which is built by re-using the Greek temple of Minerva, the gaps in the outside row of temple columns was filled in and the inner sanctuary was opened up re-using the temple as a cathedral. Ancient columns still frame the entry.
The old city is on an island, just off the mainland, that frames a secure harbor. An interesting feature is the Arthusa Fountain--a natural fresh water spring on the edge of the salt water Bay of Syracuse. It was an invaluable resource for a besieged city. The fountain is probably the terminus of an underground river, a not uncommon occurrence in limestone bedrock. The old city also has the remains of a Greek temple to Apollo.
Outside the city is the Paradise Quarry, a limestone quarry that collapsed in an earthquake, killing hordes of slaves. After the collapse, it was abandoned letting the trees take over and turning it into a sort of wild park. Near the quarry is a Greek theatre carved out of the solid limestone bedrock and a Roman amphitheatre near that.
On the way back to the hotel, we were stuck in traffic for an hour because of an accident. After dinner, the sky cleared and the top of Etna was visible for the first time, and we could see red trails of lava oozing down the mountain.
9-23-08 TAORMINA, SICILY: Today we went up Mt. Etna. It is polite and civilized, for a volcano. It frequently offers lava to the surrounding towns and villages, but the flow is usually slow enough for folks to get out of the way. The flanks of the mountain are covered with villages, all of which have been threatened by the lava at one time or another. The volcanic soils are rich, and people seem to accept the bargain of an occasional lava intrusion in exchange for successful agriculture. We got up to about 6,000 feet out of a possible 11,000 and had an hour to explore before fog and clouds moved in. It was barely enough time to explore two small craters and a lava field from 2006. There was no chance of getting to the new lava flows.
On the way back to the hotel we drove through Giardini Naxos, an ocean side town just south of Taormina built on an old Greek settlement. After lunch, Judy and I explored the public gardens. Dinner was at Bouganvilla Restoranto, near the park with some of the group.